BEDWIN & THE HEARTBREAKERS: BREAKING HEARTS WITH BEBETAN
Bedwin, a brand so cemented in both the Japanese, and now worldwide fashion scene, is made up of the fusion of Masafumi Watanabe’s biggest inspirations; Classic menswear and Japanese design.
Founded under the umbrella company DLX Tokyo, which also facilitated Bebetan’s lifelong friend and collaborator Hideki Kimura’s “DELUXE” (now under Deluxe Co.,Ltd.), the brand has its place as a monumental legacy brand for the Tokyo scene, and as a result of ongoing partnerships with modern brands has seen Bedwin & The Heartbreakers go worldwide and have huge success: adidas Originals, BYBORRE, Stussy to name but a few.
Growing up as a self-described hustler on the Tokyo streets saw Watanabe consume an otherworldly amount of western media which so strongly infiltrated the Japanese youth at the time, including music, film, and fashion.
A post-university excursion to London which led Bebetan to live there for nearly two years exposed him to even more western influences, particularly the globally acclaimed Saville Row tailoring outputs of classical menswear which we now see him inject Japanese DNA into.
What followed was a six-year stint from 1997 until 2003 at early Japanese streetwear powerhouse “Tenderloin”. There, he produced T-shirts as a labour of love after meeting a vintage clothing specialist from the brand during his time in London, working as a photographer producing portrait and street fashion content. At this moment in time, streetwear labels like A Bathing Ape, Neighbourhood and Undercover were already champions of the local scene and a foothold in the global market; in Bebetan’s mind, “If they can do, at least we can try to do”.
While producing content for Tenderloin he had dreams of grandeur and wanted to do more. Fewer T-shirts, which was what every man and his dog was making at the time, and more menswear.
With a tornado of menswear, streetwear, and Japanese fashion in his head, and creative juices flowing, Masafumi ended his time at Tenderloin and together with his friend Kimura, in 2003, they founded DLX Tokyo and their separate labels, “DELUXE" (now under Deluxe Co.,Ltd.) and “Bedwin & The Heartbreakers” were created.
Bedwin & The Heartbreakers is the realisation of the mixture of inspirations Bebetan has been exposed to throughout his life; the ideologies are a biography of his travels and influences, and document an evolution from a young streetwear lover to a 30-year old man living “after streetwear”. It isn’t simply the emulation of classic Americana styles, that Watanabe describes as “perfect already”, it’s the remix, the revision, the simultaneous modernisation of Americana and menswear with a Japanese design ethos.
Always keeping the silhouettes that were present in the America of the 1920s, ’30s as inspiration, Bedwin & The Heartbreakers for their SS20 season produced a range of clothing from military wear, over streetwear staples to fine line suits. A wrap of what the brand embodies since its conception.
The ensemble playing of Americana heritage and Japanese design approach is what makes Bedwin so relatable to so many; this collection in itself is the perfect answer to someone in Bebetan’s dilemma of dressing in a more mature form of streetwear.
SABUKARU sat down with Bebetan to talk about the philosophy of Japanese streetwear, collaborations with Dickies and how many hearts you need to break to become a heartbreaker.
In your own words, what would be the easiest way to describe BEDWIN & THE HEARTBREAKERS to someone who just started to find out more about Japanese fashion?
BEDWIN & THE HEARTBREAKERS is a lifestyle brand based in Tokyo. The brand is inspired by Tokyo culture and the passion people have for music, art, skateboarding, Marshall arts etc. Also travelling around the world expressing this culture.
There aren't many brands and designers out there that have seen the Tokyo fashion scene unfold and rise like you. What would you say were the most important moments for Tokyo fashion and at what part of its fashion journey is Tokyo right now?
I would say in terms of street fashion culture it would be Mid 90’s. That's when Japanese street fashion started gaining momentum along with the rest of the world. Also, Fashion, in general, seems to have reverted and is very influenced by the ’90s right now, so there is more interest in Japanese street fashion also happening.
It’s nothing new, the western world has an obsession with Japanese style, what are some of the misconceptions of what people think of Japanese fashion?
Regarding Japanese street fashion, Originally Japanese has no “set" style, I mean Japanese has "freestyle" in fashion. So basically no rules! If there were to be one rule it would be, do as you wish but express yourself. That’s the philosophy.
Before setting up DLX with your partner Hideki Kimura, you both worked at Tenderloin in the ’90s; what was your time like there as you ultimately started your journey in the fashion world?
Some of the Japanese brands started their career since 94, such as Undercover, Bathing Ape, Neighbour hood etc. Tenderloin is one of the legendary brands based in Los Angeles, London and Tokyo. Hideki Kimura Joined Tenderloin 2002 and he left 2003. I worked at Tenderloin from 1997 until 2002. To be honest my fashion journey started when I was modelling when I was 13 years old and my experience at Tenderloin enhanced that.
What was it like being the one pushing the boundaries of streetwear and traditional menswear to the limits when you first started BEDWIN back in the early 2000s?
In the beginning, not many people understood what I was trying to do. Simply because menswear and streetwear were positioned differently. I wanted to start something different and more personal than when I used to work and saw at Tenderloin.
What makes the fusion of Americana with Japanese design so interesting, and when did you start exploring your fashion for it?
I think that streetwear as a modern style was born in the US and was helped to grow bigger in Japan. Now the streetwear scene has grown around the world. Because there were many street subcultures in the US like Skateboarding, music, dance, graffiti etc.
I started exploring my fashion when I was 9 years old based off of my influence of seeing these things.
Your motivations for starting Bedwin was to create a brand that was post streetwear, not many people will know about your other brand a-socialist, can you describe the concept and motivations behind a-socialist?
A Socialist is my passion project. Not as much as like a brand. More a project. Bedwin & The Heartbreakers is based in the late ’80s and 90’s when I was travelling around the world. A Socialist is inspired by my memories of my father when I was a teenager. The motivation of brand creation is the man in a nice suit on special occasions. The man I would like to be for my future, and those are inspired by memories of those times.
What are your favourite pieces or projects that you’ve created throughout your career?
Dickies collaboration series and b.d shirt and GOAT T-shirt at the moment.
Streetwear is getting old, same as its audience, and many men find themselves in a new situation where they still want to dress cool and contemporary without looking out of place. Bebetan, please, give us some of your wisdom on how to still dress so well while not being a teenager anymore.
What is your fashion advice to all the 30+’s out there?
There is no fashion advice on my end. I think there isn't an age limit on your clothes. I define fashion as a trend at the same time it can be style. The trend is always changing. Style can be changed when you are young (before 30+). After you establish your style, follow your trend, not for someone else. And "style" in what you feel comfortable. No judgement by anyone else. It's your creative freedom and so please enjoy and have fun with it!
What are your current influences for Bedwin and what can we expect to come in the near future?
My influences for Bedwin are always the people in the street. It will be changing with what I see and feel influenced by the people.
You’ve been in the industry for a few decades now, how have you witnessed the style change in these times and what are your thoughts on this new era we live in?
In my opinion, the style hasn't changed much I expected, however, the people in the industry is where I have seen more change. The change in becoming a big business and in some cases, unfortunately losing some spirit. But that’s ok with me as long as I don’t lose mine, everyone can do as they please.
How many hearts did you break for Bedwin to become the heartbreakers?
I don't think I’ve ever broken any hearts for BEDWIN to be the heartbreakers in my memory. So we are still trying to be the heartbreakers!
How do you think will the Tokyo fashion world react to the after-COVID world? Are we about to see a shift to even more quality and craftsmanship?
No one knows. I guess it will be back to basics and to be authentic, also keep our lives as positive always. But I guess we should learn and always be ready to“ react" after COVID-19. Who knows what other challenges may come for the world in the future, so learning to react from this experience will be important for the future.
THANK YOU A LOT FOR YOUR TIME
AUTHORS: Samuel Le Roy & Adrian Bianco
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Samuel Le Roy is a 21-year-old chemistry graduate based east of London. At any moment he’s tapped into multiple subcultures with a particular interest in streetwear and fashion, Sam aims to travel to Tokyo to immerse himself in Japanese culture once completing his studies, and continue writing pieces like this.
