The All Condition Legacy - A Conversation With The ACG ARCHIVE
In the last year or two, there seems to have been an upsurge trend of Instagram archive pages.
These accounts are documenting and preserving the history of past products and ultimately forming a quick, easily accessible, go-to place to learn about niche products.
Within an upcoming series, we will be constructing articles that ultimately give these pages the room they deserve on the web, to allow the space for a deeper dive into the universe of these accounts and the rich history they are celebrating.
For the first in the series, we turn our attention to ACG Archive, allowing for a brief overview of the history of Nike’s legendary ACG line whilst also interviewing the anonymous entity behind the account.
All conditions gear is a product line that no doubt most outdoor brands strive towards, the invention of garments that can simply be worn in all conditions.
The history of one of the most popular niche lines Nike has ever made stretches back to the eighties and continues through to this day. After all these years ACG has become more than a brand for some people and the cult-like following is second to none.
ACG Archive is one of these accounts that is created out of the love and passion for everything ACG, creating an instantly accessible archive page through the use of Instagram, giving a basic insight into recent and old releases. To understand their excitement towards ACG we are going to give you a small insight and history run down, taking you through the different time.
After getting its way paved by Hike Nike, a predecessor project that Nike has launched prior to forming ACG, Nike was already trying to dive into the outdoor market whilst still giving the consumer the sporty element that Nike was known for at the time. Keep that in mind. Nike back then was sporty and sporty alone. Yes, you had people wearing their products casually, but the advertising and the whole image was built around performance in sport, which to some extent remains today.
Although the ACG line wasn’t fully launched until the nineteen nineties, models like the Lava Dome, the Magma and the Approach were sold already.
With Nike having released the models before actually introducing the brand properly, made ACG a vet in the outdoor market before even fully existing.
The Approach model, for example, was the first shoe in Nike’s long history that featured Gore-Tex as material on a shoe. The whole collection was a small revolution on the outdoor market, creating lighter and more colourful shoes rather than sticking to your average brown leather boot. ACG’s style back then was heavily influenced by a culture called “Stonemasters”. Taking the Cali surfer styles and adapting them to the rocks of Yosemite related with the stereotypical climber back then. The Stonemasters favored light running shoes over rugged boots, which was a big no-no back then.
Finally, in 1989, Nike launched Nike ACG and released some iconic silhouettes in the first year. The Son of Lava dome, as well as the Wildwood, became instant classics within the sneaker community and to this day are highly sought after collectibles.
Outdoor sports became very popular and affordable at the beginning of the nineties and ACG basically combined all of them into one brand. Climbers, bikers, and snowboarders all bought ACG’s offerings because of their rugged materials, solid soles and funky colorways. ACG rose up the ranks, offering their customers a new take on outdoor clothing, which was not just favored by the younger outdoor kids but also was a big success with more experienced folks. The garments, silhouettes, and even advertisements and marketing were so on point that they remain contemporary today.
During that time ACG was the place for Nike’s greatest designers to come together to create new and purposeful garments for extreme conditions. For example, Tinker Hatfield designed the most well known ACG silhouette, the Mowabb.
Named after the Moab region in Utah, the Mowabb was a merger between the huarache and the wildwood and resembles an outdoor cross-training shoe. The fact that all the products ACG released were suitable for the outdoors made them automatically suitable for the concrete jungle most people live in. ACG became a solid provider not just for the outdoor lovers but also for the people that lived in the suburbs of big cities. As the acronym ACG gives away the products are “all condition gear” and can be worn on the slope, in the forest and on the pavement.
The combination of superior garments and incredible marketing ideas gave ACG a cult-like following that remains today.
After a lengthy silence, Nike relaunched ACG in 2014 under menswear designer Errolson Hugh, the mastermind behind ACRONYM. The collaboration ultimately led to a completely different direction, giving the brand a more modern, street/tech wear aesthetic and although a great line in itself it was a complete overhaul of what everyone resonated with All Conditions Gear.
Key ACG colours were replaced with a clean, monotone aesthetic, the collaboration allowed for a new audience to be introduced to the world of ACG for the first time, mainly due to it being a less expensive alternative to Hugh’s mainline project ACRONYM. The garments were made for the city rather than the outdoor wilderness, offering all-black garments, taped seams and a lot of gore-tex, a perfect mix for the trending techwear aesthetic.
Hugh’s collaboration with ACG line ended in 2018 and under the lead of Creative Director, James Arizumi, ACG has now begun to return to its heritage roots, rereleasing old models and new alterations of classic pieces, going back to the outdoors, the mud and wilderness.
Bearing all this in mind, the ACG universe is not that easy to get into, like anything pre 2010 it is hard to find available sources, articles, and interviews without digging deep and sourcing old brochures and catalogues from the glory days, making it hard to fully grasp what the brand is all about.
In late 2018 ACG archive started working on this project showcasing garments from ACG’s golden era, reiterations of classic pieces and very recent releases, ACG Archive, although in its infancy is on a mission to help bridge this gap, setting up a page to introduce the newcomers and the loyalists to prime ACG reference material.
The Sabukaru team sat together with the anonymous figure behind the ACG Archive account.
ACG Archive
Can you please introduce the ACG Archive, it’s purpose, and motivation to the Sabukaru Network?
Simply put, ACG Archive (@acgarchive) is the number one documentation of Nike ACG pieces and culture on the web. The vision revolves around trying to get as many of these products in one place as possible in order to make it easier for people like you and me to find, enjoy, and appreciate.
I started the page in early 2019 after observing this whole shift towards functional fashion that we’re currently going through as a society. I have been watching everything pretty vigilantly from a consumer standpoint and I remember just wanting to get involved with it so badly. So one night I kinda just booted up a little IG page on a whim and started caching ACG shit. It felt productive and it was a fun outlet for me. After doing it for about a year now, I’ve definitely developed a ton of pride in providing this resource for everybody.
When did your interest in ACG begin? Are there any specific seasons or products that marked a tipping point in your passion for All Conditions Gear?
The turning point came in late 2018 when one of my family members gifted me a bunch of his old athletic clothes. There was this black vest in there that had the iconic triangle logo embroidered into the breast... I thought it was super hard, and from then on I was hooked. Simple as that. I’ve been a huge Nike boy all my life but had somehow never crossed paths with ACG stuff up until that point. It really intrigued me.
An OG collector would probably fall off his high horse hearing that you just started your passion for ACG in 2018. Do not be afraid, the Sabukaru network does not believe in numbers and years as a metric to prove knowledge and passion. Still, would you say that your comparably short experience with the ACG legacy represents a new spirit and generation of - let’s call it “Archivism”?
That’s funny, I actually hadn’t thought of it like that. I guess when I get really into something it can become a bit of a rabbit hole… Also, I don’t think I can really speak for anyone else but myself when it comes to the overall spirit of “Archivism.” I have a lot of passion for what I do, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that other people who do it have the same attitude. However, I can definitely say that it is becoming increasingly easy to browse and cache cool shit with the power of the internet. New archive pages are popping up at a rate we’ve never really seen before, and that kinda just speaks to how accessible everything is now.
We owe it all to JJJJound, though. ‘08 JJJJound was on a different tip and he literally changed the whole landscape of online archivism. Shoutout Justin.
Even though you’ve told us you’d like to keep your identity anonymous, could you please give us some idea as to what’s going on with the person behind the account and archive? Are you involved in the design or fashion industries? Or does your interest in outerwear stem solely from your archive?
Great question, and I’m glad you ask because I’d actually love to give the people who are curious some background. I am indeed a young designer and (thanks to my crazy mentor) am currently working on some super sick projects with some mega influential brands and people. The page has been a great side project to keep me busy and has also done wonders for me in terms of networking. The community of people that are interested in this kind of thing is full of amazing resources.
I’ve chosen to remain anonymous so far for multiple reasons, but mainly as a means to preserve my identity and status outside of the account. There would be a weird cross-over between my two lives and I’m not sure I’m quite ready for that yet. Also, it’s nice to see the page grow independently! People like it because of what it is and what it stands for, not because of who is associated with it. I have confidence that you will know who I am someday, but in the meantime I’m perfectly content to operate behind the scenes.
What is your favourite ACG season? And is there a way you divide ACG into eras or chapters?
I don’t know if I could identify one particular season as my favorite, but my favorite era of ACG definitely lies somewhere in between the super late 90s and the mid 00s. They had some insane footwear coming out in this period like the Crested Butte type stuff, and two of my personal favorites, the Terra Wildgoat and Air Steens. Not to mention some of the incredible apparel that these years saw like the AirVantage jacket. Peak performance and aesthetic from the brand in my opinion.
As for dividing the legacy up, I tend to think of ACG in 4 or 5 different chapters, although there’s definitely some overlap as well as a variety of distinct sub-chapters. I’ll try to keep it simple though. Here goes:
Chapter 1: 1988 to 1994 was the flamboyant beginning of it all. The golden age, if you will. Then I’d say there was a subtle shift that lasted roughly into 1997 where the design language was best exemplified by the Air Mada series. Lots of brown leather.
Chapter 2: 1997 is when ACG faces its first sort of rebranding with the transition to the two lungs logo, and this marks a new chapter as well. This is what I consider the “mid-school” era; we look back at it now and it’s not quite modern but also not quite vintage. It’s in the middle. That lasts until like 2008, and in between its beginning and its end it becomes increasingly sleeker. The materials become a little more technical and the product overall becomes more city-friendly.
Chapter 3: 2009 marks the 20th year anniversary of ACG and the brand reverts back to some of its original spirit. Pop colors are being revived in this period and so is the original triangle logo, but in a new context. ACG continues to implement newer technologies into their products (Lunarlon, Foamposite, Flywire, etc.). However, this “neo-retro” approach doesn’t land particularly well with consumers and Nike is forced to take a left turn.
Chapter 4: In 2014, Nike takes on Errolson Hugh of Acronym to breathe some life into ACG. Hugh turns the brand upside down with his mega-technical design style, which is intended to be worn in more urban settings than truly outdoors ones. It bears almost no resemblance to the ACG of the past and becomes a very polarizing line. Hugh releases his final NikeLab ACG collection in 2018, and for better or for worse, completes his revitalization of the brand.
Chapter 5: In 2019, Nike ushers in new department head James Arizumi to take over for the foreseeable future. Arizumi’s approach is similar to the one seen in the third chapter I described in that there’s a lot of retro spirit in the color blocking, but perhaps in a more savvy and attractive way. I’ve explained it to friends by saying that he’s trying to make ACG fun again.
Is there a “golden era” product or product line that defines the true spirit of ACG for you?
When I think of the ACG golden era, my mind immediately jumps to the turn of the decade from the 80s to the 90s. It was around this time that they settled in, really hit their stride (in large thanks to ACG co-founder/designer Steve McDonald), and put out an incredible volume of quality product. This is when the world was introduced to the Air Mowabb, Air Azona, Air Yewtah, etc. as well as those iconic colored fleece jackets like the St. Helens and Makalu. The brand was known for its vibrant innovation and distinct quirkiness within the outdoors community, and I think that right there is the truest and most original ACG spirit.
Besides Steve McDonald, have there been any other designers in the ACG legacy that you have grown to admire? And if so, what makes them stand out for you when it comes to their design language?
Peter Fogg is one of them for sure. He was responsible for a lot of cool stuff coming out in the Two Lungs era, perhaps most notably the Air Zoom Tallac. When I think of his specific design language, what usually pops up for me are his sketches of the Tallac or the Minot. He’s got a very distinct style and his stuff looks so advanced and futuristic for its time. I think that’s one of the biggest feats a designer can accomplish -- making their product look so cutting edge that years down the road it still feels like it could be relevant.
Mid-end of the last decade we saw Errolson Hugh and Johanna Schneider diving into the ACG design-work bringing it into a more technical and contemporary form. By the very end of the decade, ACG went back to its outdoor roots and a more playful approach. How do you feel about this transition?
In all honesty, I’m grateful to see it. Errolson and Johanna did a great job with their work and no matter how you slice it, they deserve immense credit for doing what they did. I can’t overstate how cool what they did was. However, it wasn’t very congruent with the label’s past and that didn’t always sit super well with me. I’m glad that Nike is working on cultivating the original ACG spirit again.
Outdoor fashion is enjoying a massive trend at the moment, how can ACG keep its design language when the trend is gone? Will ACG have to retake a more bold diversion, a new design direction just like we’ve seen under Schneider and Hugh?
Lucky for ACG, they’ve got one of the richest in-house archives in the game to take reference from. So much history and so much technology to take advantage of when it comes to innovation… If they play their cards right and evolve smartly, they won’t need to make a drastic change like they did with Hugh and Schneider ever again.
If you had the chance to design and run your own outerwear brand, what are the things that you would put special emphasis on? What pillars do you think your brand would be built on?
After taking extensive cues from brands like and wander or Arc’teryx, I’ve come to realize that the foundation of any great outdoors-oriented brand is the belief that function comes before fashion. It’s important to remember that you can make something “pretty” or aesthetically pleasing after you get all the details, materials, and quirks out of the way first. It’s a “how will this pocket be used?” instead of a “how does this pocket look?” kind of thing. Little paradigm shifts like that when designing a nice coat, for instance, will gain your brand a following -- not just a cool color way.
I also think that we’re at a point in fashion where consideration for earth-friendly practices and materials is becoming increasingly sexy! It would be important to capitalize on that not only to generate some buzz, but also just for sustainability’s sake. I think that’s really important. Story mfg is doing a great job with that right now and I admire their perseverance through all of the challenges that come along with making something that sustainable go large-scale. Also, sidenote: I think the two co-founders are having a kid soon, so if you guys ever read this just know that I’m a big fan and am sending cheers over to you guys!
What does your archive work look like? Where do you get the content for the page, and how?
I’ve spent an incalculable amount of time digging through the internet for pictures and info to post on the page. I couldn’t tell you I find everything in one specific place, or even one specific type of place as it really tends to vary. I treat it like a treasure hunt, and it honestly feels that way just based on how gratifying it is to stumble into something I’ve been looking for for awhile. So far I’ve gathered data on 400+ pairs of ACG shoes, and who knows how much else for apparel. It’s great practice for reference research as I often find myself in some super obscure corners of the web mining for rare pics and whatnot. I don’t think I would ever really call it “work” though.
As for your own personal collection, how much of your closet space does your ACG collection take up? Do you own any of the pieces that you post on the archive?
I own a decent amount of ACG, but not a crazy amount. As much as I love the brand, there’s only a few pieces here and there that I really feel the urge to purchase. My favorite comeup so far though has probably been my ACG Considered slip-ons with the convertible heel. So sexy, man. The design ethos behind all the Nike Considered product is truly fantastic. Definitely look it up if you’re not familiar.
In which direction is the ACG archive heading? Are there any plans to provide more individual info for every item and explain the deeper levels of design and individual products at some point?
No real plans to change anything at the moment! I like to keep it pretty bare and just let others try to piece things together and extrapolate. Usually I’ll just try to give the name and year of the piece and move on to the next. I guess, every now and then I’ll add some commentary, but only when I think something is especially interesting. I’ve been working on color-coding posts too, I think that it looks great when everything is sitting there synergizing like that.
Your goal is to create the biggest and most comprehensive ACG archive of all time, what are your steps along this way, and on what part of the journey are you right now?
The biggest key when it comes to achieving that goal is just being consistent and not overextending myself. I think if I can do that then the rest will take care of itself. I’ve found a good rhythm for posting recently and I’ve got an insane queue of items I plan on putting up as we go forward. One day I hope to bring everything up to date, but the only way to do that is just to be methodical and enjoy the process.
Are there any other archive/display pages that you enjoy following?
Shoutout Organic Lab and Tech Spec one time! Big time favorites of mine with some amazing people behind them calling the shots. The Culture PDX is a great resource too.
If you could put together your favorite ACG outfit of all time, what where the individual pieces it would consist off?
Oh shit. I’d probably have to get dripped in the Two Lungs era desert camo pants, a pair of 1999 Air Exploruns, some golden era Thermax underwear (just because), one of the grey Cairn tees, and then the black and white gridded Karst 40 day pack to bring it all together. Maybe the NikeLab bucket hat too. That would be one of the biggest flexes of all time and you can’t tell me any differently.
Please express your love for ACG in three words only:
I might need four.
Are there things that you would change at ACG if you had the chance to? Are there any product lines you would like to see come back or any other wishes you’d have from an archive perspective? What are your thoughts on an official archive page or physical archive done by Nike?
I was actually talking with my mentor about this the other day and we were thinking that it would be cool if ACG dipped some toes into Salomon design territory -- a little less focused on retro vibes and a little more focused on aesthetic and modern performance enhancements. It’s tough to do that when so much of the brand is based around nostalgia right now, but nonetheless I think it would be sick.
From an unaffiliated perspective, it would be really cool if Nike eventually hit me up to help them curate an official archive website or something. I’ve probably got more historical ACG knowledge in my head than a lot of the people who currently work for the brand itself, and I know I’d have a blast collaborating with them on something like that down the road. Just a thought!
Thank you a lot for your time.
Text by
Stephen Donald, Jon Wallner & Adrian Bianco
