Form and Function: An Introduction to Arc’teryx
This introduction into Arc’teryx is the first part of an ongoing series that examines functional wear by focusing on the designers and brands that are making an impression on a segment of the fashion industry which prioritizes progressive fabrics and specialized features.
Our ongoing series will approach functional wear from a cultural and industry perspective and will also include articles and interviews on the designers and brands that emphasize utilitarian and progressive forms of design throughout their work. With the launch of Form and Function, Sabukaru will be a quintessential platform that acts as a resource to help guide you on a rising movement that many fashion circles refer to as the future of fashion.
Archaeopteryx Fossil, the inspiration behind the branding of ARC’TERYX.
It is not uncommon for brands and designers to lean on subcultures for inspiration. For instance, Jun Takahashi’s “We Make Noise Not Clothes” rebellious motto for UNDERCOVER led him to draw inspiration from many of his favorite punk rock bands. Similarly, the founder of Stussy, Shawn Stussy, grew up engrossed in West Coast surf-culture – an aesthetic that continues to inform his work to this day. Arc’teryx, an outdoor clothing and technical outerwear brand that has not been explored as extensively as Undercover or Stussy, draws its inspiration from a progressive philosophy: one that is defined by the idea that “there is always a better way”.
Looking towards the trends of today you can see Virgil Abloh of Off-white exploring and experimenting with form and function, whether this be with the Gore-Tex offerings he has had over several seasons or with the recent introduction of a collaboration between Off-White and Arc’teryx during F/W2020, all be it avant-garde and has widely come under intense scrutiny from hardcore outerwear fans however an exploration allowing this bridge between worlds should be welcomed with open arms, bridging both worlds will only push forward and innovate and allow for products that we never imagined before.
Jeremy Guard
Dave Lane
In 1989, David Lane, a devoted mountaineer, initially founded Rock Solid Manufacturing in Vancouver, Canada. It was in 1991 that Lane, alongside his new partner and fellow climber, Jeremy Guard, abandoned the title Rock Solid Manufacturing in favor of the appellation that we now know as Arc’teryx. Derived from the Archaeopteryx, a bird-like dinosaur that connects the transition between non-avian dinosaurs and their avian successors, Arc’teryx’s newfound mission was driven by the idea of evolution, that is, striving towards the ideal, and thus sought to inject the process of growth and development into the world of outerwear.
Since Arc’terxy’s formation, the venerable company solidified its role within the outdoor market by producing a succession of innovations in both hardware and outerwear. Arc’teryx claims that one of the reasons why they continue to craft the world’s best outerwear and equipment is because of their relationship with W.L. Gore. Though a medical supplies manufacturer primarily, W.L. Gore is best known as the developer of Gore-Tex, a lightweight fabric that can repel liquid while allowing water vapor to pass through its membrane.
1998 Alpha SV Jacket
In 1998, Arc’teryx was one of the only brands that were given a W.L. Gore license that never made a piece of apparel before. Arc’teryx claims that their unique relationship with W.L Gore was the catalyst for inspiring their unique perspective on what they wanted to achieve as an apparel brand. Upon obtaining a license from W.L. Gore, Arc’teryx designed its first apparel product, the celebrated Alpha SV jacket. This was an important point for Arc’teryx because the Alpha SV transformed the outerwear marketplace by reducing the weight of a waterproof and wind-resistant alpine jacket by 300 grams.
After the success of the Alpha SV jacket, Arc’teryx became one of the most esteemed manufacturers for outerwear. Proving to be a force to reckon with, Arc’teryx expanded its original line of climbing jackets into a full range of apparel. Today, Arc’teryx offers a wide-ranging product list that is comprised of various product lines and collections.
Each of Arc’teryx’s product lines is defined by their function.
Ascent
The Alpha SV jacket is part of Arc’teryx’s mainline collection, Ascent, which focuses on performance outerwear for mountaineering.
Veilance
Veilance, Arc’teryx’s luxury performance product line, is a collection that is touted by functional wear enthusiasts because of its minimalist take on garments that engender advanced functional connections that help the wearer navigate and respond to the uniqueness of urban environments.
LEAF
Arc’teryx’s LEAF is a product line that is composed of equipment targeted to the military and law enforcement markets (The United States Marine Corps adopted Arc’teryx’s Tango for their backpacks and the United Kingdom’s Specialist Firearms Command chose Arc’teryx’s Assault uniforms).
WHITELINE
Whiteline, Arc’teryx’s snow sports-focused line, consists of avalanche ready backpacks and insulated hard-shell jackets that are designed for skiers and snowboarders.
24
24, Arc’teryx’s lifestyle collection, is akin to Veilance in spirit, in that it focuses on streamlined garments that are designed for urban life, but different from Veilance, in that, 24 is more accessible monetarily.
Endorphin
Arc’teryx’s Endorphin is a product line that is geared towards trail running and other outdoor activity whose designs for base layers and soft-shell jackets make use of moisture-wicking fabrics (the ability to move sweat to the fabric’s outer surface and dry rapidly so that the sweat does not keep the fabric wet).
Essentials
Finally, Arc’teryx’s Essentials product line is less focussed than the previous collections described above, but the advantage of this line is that it emphasizes basic design in order to produce Gore-Tex pieces that are highly adaptable and multipurpose.
Arc’teryx’s diverse offerings act as a testament to both the quality and reputation of their products. Yet, even though Arc’teryx’s product lines vary in function, and in turn, have subtle differences aesthetically, what you are guaranteed is Arc’teryx’s high-grade commitment to quality.
As seen in products like the Alpha SV jacket, it is evident that the notion of evolution has played an important guiding principle for Arc’teryx. Adhering to an evolution-focused approach to design, that is, an approach that aims to develop towards the ideal, it is no wonder that a brand such as Arc’teryx can encapsulate and epitomize how an innovative design spirit is inherently adept at creating products that can respond to the demands of ever-changing environments and the shifting needs of the market. And this is what distinguishes Arc’teryx from other brands: Though inquiring about the nature of design or evolution has philosophical connotations, Arc’teryx’s motif demonstrates the way in which musings on evolution can be passionately incorporated in the context of design and productively implemented in the construction of garments.
Form & Function
An ongoing series which will examine functional wear: garments that are inspired by utilitarian and progressive approaches to design. The aim of Form and Function is to showcase brands and designers that celebrate utilitarian aesthetics.
The impact and appeal of garments that not only serve a function but also provide comfort, is growing at an exponential rate throughout the fashion industry. With a new decade upon us, how will functional wear be affected? Will functional wear continue on its own path, or will it be influenced by the ever-burgeoning need to ‘keep up’ with the inevitable fluctuation of trends?
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Raffi Aintablian is based in Toronto and received his master’s degree in philosophy. He is in the midst of applying to a postgraduate degree in clinical psychology, but whenever his head isn’t buried in books on the philosophy of mind, psychiatry, and the nature of consciousness, he’s always following up on various happenings in design, politics, and film.
