Yohji Yamamoto – A Dialect of Fashion and Manga
Fashion has been a tool to showcase your personality visually for as long as we can remember. The way you dress is often a projection of your identity, and as time goes on fashion has only played an even more integral role in the pursuit of individuality. It’s one of the key ingredients in our personal brand, and whether you are a fashionista or could care less about the latest threads dropping, the way you dress, even if subconsciously, is a conduit into your personality and ethos.
Because of this ideology, it only makes sense for fashion brands to start mixing in other cultural representations to connect with their audience’s personality even further. So here enters pop culture behemoth – Manga. If you are a reader of Sabukaru, you are probably already well aware of the phenomenon that is Manga, and if you aren’t, then head over to our Ultimate Guide to Manga after reading this to get clued up.
Manga has swept the world by storm since its birth in the early 1900s, and although once home to Japan, it is now a worldwide sensation reaching almost every corner of the globe. Manga is intertwining itself in our lives more and more. First with its digital adaptation, Anime, to now live-action films being created, and even fully-fledged theme parks and resorts dedicated to manga franchises are erecting. Manga is a cultural sandstorm, which for many, westerners especially due to it being a more niche interest for them, becomes a key ingredient in one’s identity. Much like any form of entertainment that we partake in, it tells us a lot about ourselves.
So, it is no wonder why as the years go on, the world of fashion and manga have started to collide. From the pages of the Japanese comics to the runways of Paris, brands are continuing to collaborate with manga franchises. At first it may seem strange, yet when you dive deep into the history between manga and fashion it makes complete sense. Manga has always taken a great interest in the world of fashion to connect on a deeper level with their audience, and vice versa. From Air Max 95’s being spotted on Yu-Gi-Oh!’s very own Joey Wheeler, to the ever-iconic drip of Vegeta and his pink camp collar shirt with ‘Badman’ emblazoned on the back. Even Sailor Moon creator Naoko Takeuchi often dressed her heroines’ clothes in garments inspired by Chanel, Dior, and Thierry Mugler.
Manga has touched the fashion industry in many ways, and the more time goes on the more the bigger players are collaborating. Such as Japanese Fashion giant, Uniqlo with even bigger Manga giant, Shonen’s ongoing partnership, to Loewe’s incredible collection in collaboration with Studio Ghibli, and Undercover x Evangelion which truly blurred the lines between the two brands' universes. But, out of all the fashion designers and big hitters out there doing it, one most notably goes by the name of Yohji Yamamoto.
One of the original trio who birthed avant-garde Japanese fashion, alongside Issey Miyake and Comme des Garcons Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto was born in Tokyo's Shinjuku Prefecture in 1943. Like it was straight from between the pages of a Japanese comic, Yamamoto has a backstory reminiscent of a protagonist from a Manga. From losing his father at an early age in the Philippines fighting the Allies and growing up in post-war Japan, the empire he built was created all from hard work, thousands of hours of training, and a burning desire to achieve. The fashion legend would follow in his mother’s footsteps as a seamstress and would eventually go on to showcase his first range, the Y's womenswear debut collection, at Tokyo's Bell Commons in 1977. He would eventually then go on to showcase Pour Homme, one of Yamamoto’s most known lines, in 1981 in Paris. The rest was history.
Yohji Yamamoto & Rei Kawakubo
Yamamoto since has been celebrated as a pioneer and paragon of Japanese fashion and still to this day continues to push boundaries with the mass number of various lines under his umbrella. Specialising in garments which destroy symmetry and distort proportions, Yamamoto has dedicated himself to creating garments that not only look and function incredibly but ones that intrigue the mind: punk yet angelic, understated yet otherworldly, confusing but never misunderstood. His garments are a testament to his dedication to his craft, and wearing a Yamamoto piece makes you feel like you’ve just gone Super Saiyan.
Because fashion and manga play a role as ingredients of our personality, it only makes sense that Yamamoto would be a huge advocate for collaborating with Manga artists and franchises. The Japanese Avant-Garde fashion designer has used his multiple branches of brands to explore the use of manga and anime within fashion, sometimes just simply using graphics or sometimes manipulating the artist’s work to create truly stand-out pieces. Unlike many collaborations which simply stick an image of our favourite character on the back of a t-shirt or skateboard, Yohji cleverly submerges his clothes into manga and art.
Yohji Yamamoto has in fact always had a connection with Japanese graphic novels and art. Having been creative in school, Yamamoto would create his own Manga books to share with his friends.
“I particularly liked art classes. I would draw my own original comics and pass them around among my friends, so I was particularly interested in drawing. My father's older brother was an abstract painter, which may have influenced me.”
Photo by Akira Kobayashi
He would then go on to attend a style drawing school of Setsu Nagasawa, a well-known fashion illustrator in Takagicho. Although not clear why specifically Yamamoto continues to collaborate with manga artists and franchises, his deeply rooted connection with art may be a big indication. Since early doors, Yamamoto has produced a diverse range of collections alongside fan favourite manga series, especially with his recent S’tye and Ground Y sub-labels, headed up by Yamamoto‘s creative team, which aim to put more of an emphasis on connecting with the younger generation.
Join us as we take you through a portion of Yamamoto‘s expansive collection of collaborations with some of your favourite Manga artists and franchises and highlight how his efforts often raise the bar of what it means to fuse two cultures. From drops with Horror legend Junji Ito to the new kid on the block, Demon Slayer, Yamamoto’s catalogue is both impressive and immersive. Let’s go.
Cyborg 009
Kick-starting our list is Cyborg 009, a science fiction superhero manga created by Shotaro Ishinomori. Cyborg 009 started in 1964 and was Ishinomori’s first heavy hitter series, amongst others such as the Super Sentai series, and the Kamen Rider. It eventually came to an end due to ishinomori’s unfortunate death in 1998, but it still to this day lives on through Yamamoto’s various homage pieces and of course the rare and sought-after vintage manga books out there.
The partnership would first start in 2007. This specific drop would be the first partnership between Yohji and Ishinomori, and would set the precedence for future drops using the Cyborg 009 illustrations. Yamamoto utilises a selection of graphics influenced from the Manga across sweaters, denim, t-shirts and bags. Alongside the graphics, interesting patterns and colour blocking decorate the garments, making them not only a cultural reference to the cult classic manga but also highly wearable pieces that take a slightly more vibrant direction from Yamamoto's usual style.
You can now find the sought-after pieces sprawled across archive and vintage pages, as well as places like Grailed, but be prepared to drop upwards of $1,000 for some pieces though. These are for the true Yamamoto collectors out there.
Skip forward 9 years to 2016 and Yamamoto revisits Cyborg 009 once again in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the Cyborg 009 movie. 2 years after the manga’s birth, in 1966, the film adaptation was released and was just as well-received as manga. To celebrate, the Japanese avant-garde designer once again utilises graphics of characters across a range of different apparel.
Titled ‘Cyborg009 Call of Justice’, the capsule consisted of 9 different garments which once again were graphic-heavy using drawings from Ishinomori, with a traditional oversized, asymmetric composition known well by Yamamoto fans. More interestingly, Yamamoto also revisits his love for drawing and designed an exclusive movie poster to commemorate the occasion.
Finally, in 2018 Yohji Yamamoto would once again pay his respects and showcase his love for the manga series and artist by joining forces once more with the late Ishinomori. For the 80th Birthday celebration, Yamamoto was put on a Cyborg 009 poster as a character listed under the alias ‘Dr. YY’, and in return designed an exclusive poster for the anime. Alongside this, a collection of clothing consisting of a total of 19 men's and women's items, including coats, pants, shirts, knits, and cut-and-sew garments, all designed with the original drawings, as well as Yamamoto’s character, Dr. YY.
Using vibrant and energetic drawings he captures the essence of the super-hero manga but fuses it with his own world to bridge a gap between brands. As well as the Cyborg 009 drop, Ground Y would also collaborate with Kamen Rider, one of Ishinomori’s other well-known creations to celebrate the 80th Birthday milestone.
Junji Ito
Junji Ito is no stranger to the Sabukaru family and fans, and his name holds as much weight as Yamamoto’s does when it comes to his world of nightmarishly twisted horror manga. One of, if not the most known horror manga artists in the world, Ito has released countless classics that go down in history as spectacles of terrifying tales. Ito’s way of injecting existential anxieties and phobias into his work seamlessly between the pages of his illustrations and intricate stories sets him apart and will make him go down in history as a real-life boogie man with a pencil.
Born in 1963, Ito for manga is what Yamamoto is to the fashion world: a fusion of beauty and darkness, disturbed yet intriguing, delicate but industrial. Ito and Yamamoto both provide a sense of disoriented clarity to their artforms that, when brought together, create some of the best showcases of manga illustrations used with apparel to date.
Primarily in collaboration with S’yte [pronounced ‘site'], Yohji’s sub-label ran by his creative team, the two worlds first came together in 2019 for a release utilising heavy graphics across Yamamoto’s traditional oversized, drapey and unisex garments. Illustrations from Tomie and the iconic Uzumaki are seen on a series of garments, two of Junji Ito’s most famed releases.
The capsule, consisting of short sleeve t’s, long sleeve t’s, and bags is the first of many efforts between the two. Paying homage to some of Ito’s most famed illustrations, inverted colours emphasise the gruesome spiral eyeball scene and the spiral effects within the hair of Uzumaki protagonist, Kirie can be seen to make us feel on edge as we check our fit in the mirror after putting these pieces on.
Shortly after, still in 2019, S’yte and Ito once again join forces to create probably the boldest adaption to date; a serious one for high fashion and horror manga enthusiasts. The collection sees once again Uzumaki illustrations heavily decorating the garments in oversized fits. Traditional balloon style, hakame-like pants, cloak-like coats and shirts and even a draped scarf consisting of the graphics.
This time, the garments create an overwhelming presence as the bold and detailed illustrations span throughout the garments and are a real stand-out pieces not for the faint-hearted. When fitted together it is almost like you are wearing a page from Ito’s books, and we like to think of this drop as the embodiment of Ito’s Uzumaki franchise in garment form. This particular collection really harnesses the power of what is capable of these types of collaborations, without looking cheesy or forced.
Again, in 2020, Junji Ito’s illustrations are seen in a similar way across another collection with S’yte. Ito’s debut creation, Tomie, is seen utilised across pants, t-shirts, hoodies, oversized shirts and more. This time though also releasing more unique items such as a tie and jewellery. Although not too dissimilar from the formula used in the past collection, the unique colour blocking throughout some of the garments mixes it up enough to keep us wanting more.
Luckily the S’yte team provided us with exactly this. A year later for Fall Winter 2021, both titans join forces again for yet another monstrous capsule. Revisiting Tomie, and as well as including the cover of his art book Twisted Visions and scenes from Hanging Blimp, this capsule is again very reminiscent of 2019’s, although maybe even bolder. Otherworldly colour hues and distinct graphics create a striking look; avant-garde fashion meets twisted dark fantasy. The two universes seem to fit seamlessly together, yet on the surface are miles apart.
In an attempt to gain a larger audience from the younger demographic, S’yte is a more affordable line than Yamamoto’s but still keeps that authentic look and feel. Most likely the reason why there is such an effort to collaborate with key figures in manga. This notion cannot be said though for our final addition to the Junji x Yohji list though, which was a limited-edition release of bags in April 2021 - and when we say limited, we mean it. 2 different leather bags were released, titled “discord Yohji Yamamoto x Junji Ito Capsule Collection Tomie” and were only available at the discord Yohji Yamamoto Pop-up Store set up at the 1st floor of Tokyo’s Isetan Shinjuku Store Main Building.
Each bag was priced at 528,000 Yen, which equates to roughly $4,000 at the current exchange rate and have only gone up in value since release due to their rarity. The bags were hand-painted and signed by Junji Ito himself and is the first time Ito has ever hand-painted on to leather. These 2 of a kind bags are a collector's dream, and if you are luckily enough to own one of these you have a true piece of Yamamoto history.
Kazuo Umezu
Following on from Ito, it’s important to mention Kazuo Umezu. Without Umezu, there would be no Ito. Umezu is the godfather of horror manga. Born in 1936, and after moving to Tokyo in 1962, the horror manga writer and illustrator would play a crucial role in inspiring those who came after him such as the likes of Junji Ito.
“Kazuo Umezu is one of those artistic giants who, along with a select few others, created the foundation upon which Japan’s immense manga and anime industry rests,” - Patrick Macias, American Author
Known for titles such as The Drifting Classroom, Cat-Eyed Boy, Orochi: Blood, Amezu was a pioneer of what the genre would become, so it is only fitting that Yohji Yamamato would also collaborate with the horror manga legend much as he did with Ito.
The collection that was launched through the S’yte brand in July 2019 was a much more played down release than some of the Ito iterations, but all the same impacting. On sale would be a few different t-shirts, and one short sleeve zip-down that retailed double what the t-shirts would be. All coming with a vibrant single colour (apart from one) graphic of some of Umezu’s illustrations. Simple yet effective, the small release was a great way to pay homage to one of the founding fathers of a genre that is so influential today.
Devilman
Devilman is next up on our roster of heavy-hitting Yohji collaborations, this time using the Ground Y label as a canvas and painting dark illustrations across a series of traditional Yamamoto-style black garments. Created by artist Go Nagai, in 1972 as a Weekly Shonen Jump, Devilman has been a pivotal inspiration to countless manga artists and is considered a monumental masterpiece. The story explores the ideology of “what are humans?” through devils and gods and introspecting the concept of “good” and “evil” – this creates naturally synergy and synchronisation with the DNA of Yohji Yamamoto, as to why the collaboration was created.
With Ground Y being an ageless and genderless diffusion of the Yamamoto family, focused on allowing a wider audience to access the Yamamoto style whilst also connecting with the Japanese demographic, collaborating with such a historical and influential manga makes so much sense. Once again blending two worlds, the capsule was in commemoration of Ground Y’s 3rd anniversary and was released in April 2020.
Included in the collection are track jackets, dolman sleeve hoodies, and coach jackets featuring characters from the manga like Zenon and Sirène. With “Darkness” being the theme of the drop, a grungy and gothic feel shrouds the garments whilst maintaining the usual Yamamoto form. Even the images in the editorial have a slight edge to them, with overexposed lighting and deep shadows cast by former Nogizaka46 member Rina Ikoma, and actor Yutaro who were used as models.
Included in the collection are track jackets, dolman sleeve hoodies, and coach jackets featuring characters from the manga like Zenon and Sirène. With “Darkness” being the theme of the drop, a grungy and gothic feel shrouds the garments whilst maintaining the usual Yamamoto form. Even the images in the editorial have a slight edge to them, with overexposed lighting and deep shadows cast by former Nogizaka46 member Rina Ikoma, and actor Yutaro who were used as models.
Neon Genesis Evangelion
Next on our list is another heavy hitter when it comes to cult classics - Evangelion. Although originally first an anime, the manga adaptation came out earlier due to production delays, and although the two don’t coincide completely, we are keeping it in this list anyway. That, and its Evangelion - we couldn’t leave this one out, manga or not. With the first chapter of the manga released in 1994 and the anime shortly after in 1995, this franchise goes down in history as one of the most influential manga and anime to ever come out of Japan. Written and illustrated by Yoshiyuki Sadamoto, Evangelion is set fifteen years after a worldwide cataclysm. The story focuses on pilots of giant mech suits as they protect the Earth from future cataclysm and explores their deep emotions and experiences. It’s a ruthless and beautiful story, one which we highly advise you to experience for yourself. Not only is it a great read/watch, but it also translates incredibly well into Yamamoto’s universe.
2015 would mark the start of the Evangelion partnership with Ground Y, another Yohji sub-label headed up by his creative team. With a focus on the youthful Japanese demographic, although keeping a core Yamamoto DNA, Ground Y explores a more playful direction and is probably the Number 1 brand for fashion and manga enthusiasts.
Any Rei fans here? Well, boy, do we have the coat for you. In their 2015 collaborations the garments harnessed large graphics of main characters such as Rei Ayanami, Asuka Shikinami Langley, and Shinji Ikari, as well as multiple Eva-mechs. This collection consists of t-shirts, wide balloon pants emblazoned with graphics, suit jackets, shirts, and our personal favourites, the long coats with inside detailing allowing the wearer to turn them inside if they wish to.
Not only this but sneakers were also released, titled ‘NERV mark sneakers’ coming in 4 flashy colourways. This specific drop was unique in that it balanced out the need to make things wearable and enjoyable, but also maintained a sense of the manga series entwined in its DNA. Bold, colourful graphics painted cyberpunk silhouettes creating once again a fusion of the two worlds.
Fast forward to 2018 the Ground Y team again revisits Evangelion for a similar collection, although one that is less graphics-heavy and instead concentrates on a more monotone, understated yet similarly striking drop. Creating abstract designs for a little more of an ‘If you know, you know’ effect, the long coats and shirts return for some incredible layering when worn together. In addition, t-shirts and tote bags were included, and we can’t help but feel like this is a perfect example of how fashion brands can use manga/anime illustrations to the best of their ability. It doesn’t scream ‘I love Evangelion’ – and at the same time will garner a nod of approval from someone passing on the street who appreciates the franchise too.
To end the partnership with Evangelion [for now, at least], in 2021 the two join forces once again, creating an almost fusion of the first two drops as they revisit certain graphics and cuts. This time bold graphics from the series are used throughout, with contrasting colours on black but also monotone pieces with delicate sketches, subtly decorating the garments. Some subtle references are included for the fans, like "EVANGELION" printed in their traditional typeface and NERV's logo. This one is a combination of the two past releases; for the fans who want to shout about it, and the ones who prefer a more subtle take.
Ghost in The Shell
From one cult classic to the next, Masamune Shirow’s Ghost in the Shell is another historical footprint in the world of manga. Starting in 1989, the series has become a phenomenon and influenced many modern sci-fi blockbusters such as The Matrix. A deeply philosophical story exploring the complications of technological advances and one’s identity, Ghost in The Shell is an equally beautifully drawn manga as it is thought-provoking.
Once again, a symbiotic relationship is formed with Yamamoto’s Ground Y label and smash hit manga series Ghost in The Shell and invites us to a neo-punk world that’s been washed over with black. A heavily monotone collection which drapes over the wearer in traditional Yohji fashion, the garments consist of Major Kusanagi, the series' main protagonist, and illustrations of the city where it is all based. A true sense of the dramatic nature of the series oozes from these garments, and with asymmetry and over-expanded graphic details, this one sits comfortably within the fusion of both fashion and manga references.
Yohji recently visited Ghost in the Shell for a second instalment through Ground Y in 2022. This time in partnership with frequent collaborator, New Era. Once again we see the recipe never completely changed, just instead twisted and tweaked in order to keep the balance between tasteful fashion and product associations. This time we see the addition of a cap with minimal branding, as well as a hoodie and t-shirt emblazoned with the illustration of "Motoko Kusanagi", main character of the series.
One Piece
What? You expected a manga article without mentioning One Piece? With all these incredibly influential manga series, it was only a matter of time before Yohji’s world would orbit the One Piece galaxy for a graphics-heavy collection paying tribute to some of the series' favourite characters. With the Manga starting in 1997 by artist Eiichiro Oda, this colossal series since has over 1000 chapters to explore making it one of the longest-running manga of all time, with chapters continuing to come out too. Following a crew of pirates as they search for the “One Piece” in order to make them the next king of Pirates, the humorous yet deep and entertaining series is beloved by countless.
With numerous video games, merchandise, anime adaptation, and a trading card game, there are not many things One Piece hasn’t absorbed into its universe, and fashion is no exception. Again, Yamamoto’s Ground Y label helps to reimagine One Pieces' favourite characters in his stylish silhouettes. Allowing for a more affordable range to drop, helping to be more accessible to One Piece's huge audience.
The thematic release sees key imagery alongside a puzzle piece theme, littered across black shirts and wide, balloon pants, whilst also offering baggy t-shirts with graphics of the iconic cast. Although not swaying away too much from the tried and tested formula we've seen in previous mentions on the list, the One Piece collaboration is reminiscent of the Evangelion drop which was a more subtle approach on certain pieces; blurring the two worlds together, instead of simply sticking graphics onto a t-shirt of the characters. The collection was released in September 2019, and was a must for One Piece and Yamamoto fans.
Demon Slayer | Kimetsu No Yaiba
For our final entry comes newcomer but equally impressive and popular manga and anime, Demon Slayer, or Kimetsu No Yaiba. Written and illustrated by Koyoharu Gotouge, running from 2016 to 2020 the bonified action-adventure manga has had a continuous buzz about it since its origin and heightening even more with its anime adaptation and big-screen film. Following a group of protagonists, subsequently titled ‘Demon Slayers’, as they hunt down sinister demons, the series is a humorous yet increasingly critical and bloody 205-chapter long tale.
Based on the graphics from the anime style by Ufotable rather than the manga illustrations, Ground Y launches a graphics-heavy capsule with a visceral look and feel to the graphics, encapsulating the fluid combat seen in the series. The capsule consists of reversible trench cloaks, reversible big laglan Coat, reversible tailored long jacket, 6 types of switching shirts and 3 types of jumbo cut and sewn. Once again heavy graphics drape over the blacked-out garments creating a powerful impression, this time consisting of illustrations of main protagonist Tanjiro Kamado, part demon-part badass Nezuko Kamado, and all-round chad Kyojuro Rengoku.
What sets this drop apart from the rest though is the materials and techniques utilised. The collection is made exclusively from traditional Japanese fabrics, including silk from Ogura Fabrics, established in 1895, and on top is put together with Japanese sewing techniques. This is the first collaboration with the youngster of the culture, and we are sure that it will not be the last as the anime continues to skyrocket in popularity both in the East and West.
Did we miss any of your favourite Yamamoto manga adaptations? This list is likely to increase as we see the S’yte and Ground Y team continuing to become further in tune with the Japanese demographic, and push collaborations like these further and further. We eagerly await the next illustrative collision between Yohji’s craft and the world of manga.
About the author:
Joe Goodwin is a Tokyo based creative and writer. Born in the UK, but now living in Japan, he explores his dialect with fashion and subculture as he dives deep into the neon streets and back alleys of Tokyo.
